On The Fly

"Fly tying is a school from which we never graduate"

PATTERN OF THE MONTH - Olive Partridge

Hook:               Dai-Riki 135; Daiichi 1130;Tiemco 2457 or 2487. Use sizes 10-16 for trout & sizes 6-10 for steelhead.
Thread:            Olive.
Tail:                  Partridge.
Ribbing:            Oval gold tinsel.
Body:               Olive hare's ear on rear 2/3 of body; peacock herl on front 1/3.
Weight (optional):   use .010 lead wire for trout & .020 lead wire for steelhead.
Hackle:             Partridge back or flank feather.

Tying Instructions:
1) Form thread underbody; secure partridge tail at hook bend; wrap lead on front 1/3 of hook leaving room for hackle and thread.
2) Dub olive hare's ear onto rear 2/3 of body and rib with oval gold tinsel.
3) Wrap strands of peacock herl over the front 1/3 of body.
4) Wind on partridge hackle; whip finish,and cement the head.

   A few weeks ago the news of summer steelhead in the river reminded me of a conversation with Al Brunell at this year's Fly Tying Expo in Eugene. He was chatting with our group from Medford and he highly recommended his Olive Partridge, a traditional soft hackle pattern, for summer steelhead in the Rogue. At that point he had my attention. If there is an effective pattern on the Rogue or any other southern Oregon river, Al would know about it. He was born and raised in Grants Pass where he began his tying career as a kid and at a young age began tying commercially for a local shop. After 32 years as an Oregon State Policeman, Al retired and opened Al's Golden Demon Fly Shop in Gold Beach at the mouth of the Rogue River. Al is now fully retired and devotes his time to his tying and fishing passion, as well as donating his talents to the Oregon Council of the FFF.
   Although Al's reputation is rooted in the colorful-dressed Rogue steelhead patterns, he makes no bones about boasting the success of the Olive Partridge. According to Al, "the fly performs well in trout streams throughout the west, as well as for summer steelhead in the Rogue and North Umpqua Rivers." The Rogue has excellent caddis hatches and I suspect that half-pounders and summer- and fall-run steelhead key in on the Olive Partridge as an emerging caddis. The only difference between the trout and steelhead versions is the size: 10-16 for trout and 6-10 for steelhead. Tie some, try some, and let me know how they work. I'm tying up my season's supply now. I might even tie up an extra half-dozen for the next raffle.

TYING TIPS - The Foundation Wrap

   A hook shank wound with tying thread from eye to bend in snug close wraps is the proper foundation for almost every good fly. There are a few exceptions where a bare shank is preferred, but most often you will find that your materials stay in place and the fly is definitely more durable. There is no reason to shirk this task when it can be done quickly and easily. Here's how you do it: After you bind down the thread at the hook eye, do not cut the thread but raise the tag end about an inch above the hook shank and away from the eye so the thread is at a 45-degree angle. Then hold the bobbin parallel to the shank and an inch above it and make widely spaced clockwise turns around the hook. The thread from'the bobbin will strike the angled tag end at the top of each turn, then slide down the angled tag to butt closely to the previous turn. When you reach the bend, let the bobbin hang. Pull up sharply on the tag end and cut if off close. Then sit back and admire the best and quickest thread foundation you ever made.

Tie One On,
Dan Kellogg (you can contact me at FLYGUY@EZNORTHWEST.COM)