On The Fly
February 2012

"Fly tying is a school from which we never graduate"

   The Southern Oregon Fly Tyers invite you to attend their meetings the second Tuesday of each month. The next meeting is February 15, 2012. The meetings start at 6:00 PM, at the Madrone Hill Mobile Home Park community building near Gold Hill. Bring a friend, come early so you don't miss anything, and stay late. Tyers need not be experienced, and those with all levels of skill are welcome. Each meeting a member is encouraged to demonstrate a new or different skill, from simple to difficult. For more information, call Dan Kellogg at 773-4724.

   DIRECTIONS: Take Gold Hill Exit #40, off of I-5 and go west, toward Jacksonville, 1.3 miles, until you reach the brick entrance way to the Madrone Hill Mobile Home Park on the right. You’ll pass a golf course parking lot on your left shortly after leaving the freeway. After you turn right into the mobile home park, proceed to the community building which is located about 100 yards ahead on the left. The address is 8401 Old Stage Rd. Please park your vehicle on the bare dirt in the parking lot to avoid the wooden septic covers in the grass

PATTERN OF THE MONTH -Olive Matuka

Hook:    Daiichi 1710 or 1720, 2x or 3x down eye, 2-12.
Thread:  6-0 Black.
Weight:  Lead wire to match shank diameter.
Rib:       Gold oval tinsel or wire, small or medium.
Body:    Dark olive medium chenille.
Wing:    Four matched olive grizzly hen feathers
Collar:  Olive grizzly hen

Tying Instructions:

Step 1: Mash the barb and mount the hook in the vise.
Step 2: Wrap eight to fifteen wraps of lead wire around the hook shank. Leave 1/4 of the shank bare in front of the wraps and 1/3 of the shank bare behind the wraps.
Step 3: Start the thread and build a taper up onto the lead from the rear, cover the lead with a thread base, and create a short taper in front of the lead. Return the thread to the bend of the hook just above the hook barb.
Step 4: Tie in a length of oval tinsel or wire at the back of the hook and secure with thread wraps.
Step 5: Strip the fibers from the end of a length of chenille to expose the thread core. Tie the chenille in by the stripped core just in front of the tinsel. Return the thread to the front of the thread wraps
Step 6: Wrap the chenille forward in touching wraps to the thread position, tie off and trim the excess.
Step 7: Select four matched hen feathers, even the tips for length, and clip the butt end so they are all the same.
Step 8: Stack two feathers outside to inside, or cupped. Do the same with the other two feathers then lay the first pair on the second with the concave sides together.
Step 9: Measure the wing set to the shank of the hook so that the feather tips are past the bend 1/2 shank length. Strip the base fibers so that the exposed stem is at the front of the chenille body.
Step 10: While holding the wing set firmly, strip the bottom side of all four feathers where they will contact the top of the chenille body. Tie the feather set at the front of the body by the stripped butt portion of the quill. Keep the feathers aligned and perpendicular to the shank. Tie off and trim excess butts.
Step 11: Grasp the tip of the wing pulling it down along the top of the body. Separate the wing fibers exposing the stems just above the hook barb. Take the first turn of rib at this separation. Continue separating the fibers and wrapping the rib in 5 evenly spaced turns to the front of the body. Tie off and trim excess.
Step 12: Prepare one more hen feather and tie it in by the butt in front of the body. Fold the fibers back while winding the feather forward four turns forming a bushy collar. Tie off and trim.
Step 13: Form a neat head, whip finish and cement.

   The Matuka is a streamer that has it's origin in New Zealand and was first introduced to North American fly fishers in the book, Fly Fishing Strategy, by Swisher and Richards in 1975. Matukas were a hit and soon began showing up in fly catalogs, shops, and fly boxes. The pattern's most distinctive feature is the wing and its unique method of attaching it to the fly. This prevents the wing from becoming fouled on the hook point while maintaining a very full fishy silhouette. With choice of size, color, feather types, and body materials, imitating any species of baitfish or sculpin should be easy. Learn the concept, then vary the materials to suit your needs.

Tying tips:

   Wide webby hackles seem to make the best Matuka wings. These can be found on hen necks and Chickabou. That doesn't mean that feathers from rooster necks and saddles won't work. It's all about the effect you are after. I prefer wire for the rib instead of tinsel. It's stronger so more tension can be added, thus holding the wing stems tightly in place. The wing is the trickiest part of the fly. Keep the following tips in mind and the results will be impressive. First of all slow down and take a little more care about measuring accurately and proportions. Separate the wing fibers with a bodkin exactly where the rib will cross the stem. If the rib does not enter at the V at 90 degrees to the shank, the wing fibers will be splayed down leaving gaps. Strip all and only the bottom fibers that will touch the body. This insures the wing will lay flat along the body.

   So tie some up, give them a test flight, and let me know how you do.

Tie One On,

Dan Kellogg
(you can contact me at FLYGUY@EZNORTHWEST.COM)
www.tyerstoolshop.com