On The Fly

      "Fly tying is a school from which we never graduate"

TYING NEWS

   The Southern Oregon Fly Tiers met Wednesday, November 8th at the library in Gold Hill. There was a fly raffle and tying demonstrations by several talented members. We encourage novice and experienced tiers alike to drop by for a fun evening. A lot of valuable information will be exchanged, and there is no fee. Next meeting will be December 13th when we will continue the popular fly exchange. Join us the second Wednesday of each month for more fun and the sharing of the art.
   RFF will be offering fly tying classes again this year. We will be adding an advanced class along with the beginner and intermediate level classes. Classes will begin on Monday January 22nd and run for six consecutive weeks. There will be no fees and all materials will be provided. Classes are limited to twelve tiers each; sign up early at the next meeting.

PATTERN OF THE MONTH - Carey Special (Steelhead Version)

Hook:      Salmon/Steelhead size #4-10.
Thread:    Olive 6/0.
Tail:         Olive Pheasant Rump hackle fibers.
Rib:         Gold oval tinsel or wire.
Body:      Olive chenille.
Hackle:    Olive Pheasant Rump hackle feather.

Tying Instructions:

1) Start the thread two eye-lengths behind the eye. This is the thread base for the body material and the marker for the hackle tie-in point. Wind a thread base back to just above the point of the hook.
2) Select a generous bunch of pheasant rump hackle barbs about one body length long for the tail. Tie them in above the hook point and then secure the butts to the hook shank up to the hook loop return.
3) At the rear of the hook, tie in the gold tinsel for the rib and then the chenille core.
4) Wind the chenille forward in touching turns and then tie off the chenille.
5) Wind the ribbing forward in five evenly spaced turns and then tie off the ribbing.
6) Select two rump hackle feathers having barbs long enough to reach past the end of the hook. Tie in the hackle feathers at the marker for the hackle tie-in point (Step 1) and wind both feathers forward, sweeping the fibers rearward while making the turns.
7) Tie back on the hackle to achieve the proper angle. Form a neat head, whip finish and apply head cement.


   The Carey Special was created in the early 1920s by Dr. Lloyd A. Day and Colonel Carey of British Columbia. Originally named the Monkey-faced Louise and tied with the hair of a groundhog, it later became known by its current name in honor of the man who helped design it. Often called the “original stillwater trout killer,” the Carey Special is still considered one of the primary patterns for the Kamloops rainbow and the Klamath Lake trophy trout. Tied in many variations of color and material, this big, soft hackle wet fly can simulate many insects, including dragonfly nymphs, caddis nymphs, mayfly nymphs and leeches.
   It’s a simple tie using only three materials. The body material is most often varied and can include peacock herl, chenille, natural hair and seal-substitute dubbing. Most recently, hook variations have included steelhead versions in larger sizes. Rusty Randall, owner of the Silver Sedge Fly Shop in Merlin, Oregon, has been offering a steelhead version for years and ties it with a red or chartreuse bead head along with a peacock herl body. “I haven’t met a fish yet that could resist this pattern” was his comment while showing me his selection. You can add several wraps of lead wire under the body or any color bead to get the fly down and in front of the fish. The Carey Special is a great pattern to experiment with. You have endless choices for the body material and pheasant rump hackles are available dyed in many great steelhead colors. This one should be in every fly box, so tie some up, give them a test flight and let me know how you did.

TYING TIPS

   If you are using peacock herl for the body, build up an underbody with thread or yarn before winding the herl. This will give the body some bulk and shape while allowing the herl to stay fuzzy. If you use a rib to strengthen the herl, fine wire counter-wrapped works best. You can wind the pheasant rump hackle two different ways, by the tip, similar to partridge, or by the stem. If you tie in at the stem be sure to find the flexible point and make sure the natural curve of the barbs points to the rear. It may take more than one feather to achieve a full-looking hackle.

Tie One On,
Dan Kellogg (you can contact me at FLYGUY@EZNORTHWEST.COM)